Biscay Dismay?

It was one of the passages that we were nervous about. The good old Bay of Biscay, which has a fearsome reputation amongst sailors, and it was to be our first proper ocean voyage in Azimuth. Forget crossing the Irish Sea a few times, this was gonna be significantly longer, and we would be going offshore much further than we ever had been before.

We had been sat in Kinsale for a while, enjoying our time with Caleb. Everyday we had been watching the weather. It had been pretty much perfect all the way from Kinsale to A Coruna, apart from the last 50 miles, where a nasty acceleration zone rushes the wind around the northern corner of Spain, driven by a low inland. So it was a judgment call on when to go. This zone at times was predicted to low up to 40 knots (Force 9) and we did not want any of that thanks very much. Eventually, the wind gods started to look in our favour, and predicted a strong North Easterly for pretty much the entire journey, and this would remain steady for at least 4 to 5 days.

Time to go….

We had to say a sad farewell to Caleb as we put him on the bus to Cork, and a quick visit to the shop for supplies and the long trek with full rucksacks back to the boat. Six o’clock that evening it was time to pull up the hook and join the flotilla of sailing boats that also looked to be leaving Kinsale at the same time (for a race we think).

The first few hours were great, flat seas, and 7 to 9 knots on a broad reach as we headed out west to join the 10th Parallel about in line with the west coast of Ireland. Why go all the way out there I hear you ask? Well the Bay of Biscay is defined by the continental shelf off the west side of Europe. This shelf drops very steeply. Near France, it drops from 120m to about 4500 in the space of 10 miles. This natural underwater cliff face is what causes the horrible sea patterns in the bay itself, and can lead to very unpredictable wave patterns, and an uncomfortable ride. To avoid this then, you head west. Further west the continental cliff face is much shallower in gradient, and hence the sea state in principle should be less affected. Similarly, you spend more time in the deeper waters of the North Atlantic rather than in the Bay of Biscay, and the wave patterns should be more Ocean roller in nature with nice long wavelengths.

That’s the theory out of the way, so what was it really like? So we sailed through that first night, and unfortunately the wind dropped and swung more to the North (behind us). That morning we were eventually completely becalmed. It was a lovely sunny day, but we weren’t going anywhere faster than about 3 knots. Eventually, we had to fire up the engine, and we don’t do that lightly these days given the price of diesel! But we needed to get South because we were sure that there was wind there that would get us to Spain. 8 hours later, and it started to appear from the North East as predicted.

Off went the engine, out went the Spinnaker pole (the first time we had used this!) and the Genoa, and off we sailed. The wind built slowly throughout the day, as did our speed, 4 knots, up to about 6 knots. That night, the North Easterly’s kicked in, so we changed the sail plan, and now we were sailing on a port broad reach. The seas started to build ….

Over the next two days, that wind got stronger, until it was averaging over 25 knots. And the seas were around 3 metres on the port quarter. Time to surf! We battled our way through the fleet of French Fishing boats on the Great Sole Bank. We were entertained by pods of dolphins leaping out of the water in the sunshine. And we surfed our way down the waves as we crossed over the continental shelf and in to the Biscay Abyss.

By now, after 56 hours at sea, it was just a case of hanging on! Azimuth was in her element it would seem. Force 6 at times touching 7, and she danced and surfed through the waves, averaging 8.5 knots and on one huge surf, hitting 12.9! Both Ailsa and I were quite tired by this point, but definitely not dismayed, just hanging on!

That final day we negotiated Tanker Alley, the AIS screen at one point showed two lines of Tankers about 60 in total all heading to or from the Traffic Separation Scheme (TSS) off the North end of Spain. It didn’t really matter though, as we just straight lined through then all at 9 knots without incident. The worry now was that we were actually going to fast. We didn’t want to arrive at A Coruna in the dark, a place that we had never been to before. About 40 miles from the coast, bolts of lightening from a thunder storm inland dramatically lit up the sky and the Torre de Hercules (Hercules lighthouse) sent out its bean to guide us to the entrance to A Coruna. It wasn’t until we were with 10 miles of the coast that the wind eventually started to drop and we coasted in at a casual 6 knots towards the narrow entrance. The sky was just starting to lighten as we negotiated a fleet of tiny fishing dinghies and dropped our hook just off the beach in A Coruna bay. Of course we felt exhausted by this point, but we also felt a great sense of achievement at completing our first ocean passage.

Total Distance609 NM
Total Time84 Hours
Average Speed7.25 Knots
Max Speed 12.9 Knots (Surfing!)
Max Wind Speed30 knots (Force 7)
Max Wave Height4 Metres (we think!)
Fastest Day 200 miles / 8.5 knots
Top Trump Azimuth Statistics!
Our route across Biscay

So was their Biscay Dismay? No! It was a very satisfying experience, and a massive confidence builder. Roll on the next stage!

Slán Éire

Well it’s been alot of fun revisiting Ireland again. Its getting close to the time to move and head South towards Spain. We are now back in Kinsale, and spending our time fixing bits and pieces, checking the weather daily to see how it develops in the Bay of Biscay and generally getting nervous about the next leg!

But hey what the hell, here’s what we have been up to since the last time we posted…

We left you last time in Crookhaven, and we decided we had to pay one last visit to another favourite, Bantry Bay. This in the first big Lough (Loch) that you come to once you round the headland on the South West Corner of Ireland, the mighty Mizen Head. Its a fearsome one too, were the Atlantic ocean crashes in to Ireland and splits, one half of the current travelling up the South coast, and the other half heading North West. This can lead to some confused seas, and you have to get the tide right for a comfortable passage. The day we did it was actually rather nice. We had North Westerly winds, and with this wind going with the tide, the sea was relatively calm for these parts.

We surfed our way up Bantry Bay itself, with the wind on a broad reach, and the seas running straight up the bay. The weather was pretty murky though and as we got deeper in to bay the winds were fickle. Still it was a very nice sail, and we rolled in to the spectacular anchorage outside of Glengarriff that evening.

The rain descended! For two days it barely stopped. No wonder this place is so green, but we didn’t fancy braving the rain and the wind in the dinghy, so we played alot of Skibbo and stared out of the window at the murk. Our friends on Zora, Sam and Rosie were anchored just next to us. They didn’t do much either!

By Sunday afternoon, it started to brighten, and we all felt the need to get off the boat, stretch our legs, and go see the town. Its a one street wonder of a place, with plenty of pubs and restaurants and a local Spar for some very expensive essentials. The pubs were packed! Turns out it was the grand final of the Irish football league, so we found a table in the “Blue Loo”, ordered the usual Guinness and white wine (not in the same glass) and sat down to watch the footie. Being completely clueless about the game, it appeared to be a hybrid between football and rugby. Entertaining none the less, and we found ourselves getting in to the swing of things, unsure of which team to support though in case we offended the locals!

Dinner at another local and back to the boat ready for some better weather the next day.

We have been to Glengarriff before, and the thing that struck us last time was a spectacular forest walk that we found. So the next day, with the sky looking much bluer, we decided to take Caleb on the same walk we did about 3 years ago to explore Glengarriffs ‘temperate rainforest’. A short track outside the edge of the town takes you deep in to ancient woodland, where the air is thick with humidity, and all the trees are covered in a thick green moss.

The name Glengarriff is derived from the Irish Gleann Gairbh which translates as the rough or rugged glen. The setting of Glengarriff Woods Nature Reserve is spectacular, with the woods nestled in the sheltered glen opening out into Glengarriff Harbour. Above the woods rise the Caha Mountains, with their dramatic layers of sheer rock.

We did several of the trails that day and walked about 10 miles around the glen. Here’s a taste of the scenery

We sat on this rock for lunch soaking up the views!

The woodland feels very ancient

And here’s some panorama’s we took after a very step climb to the top of Lady Bantry’s Lookout. You can see the anchorage where Azimuth and Zora were anchored

It was a memorable day!

We found a market still open on the way back to the boat and had some street food for tea. Ailsa disappeared for a bit and turned up with a stick of candyfloss that was arguably larger than her!

Finally before we bore you to death with Glengarriff, here are some pictures taken from the boat in the anchorage. We think it has a distinctly Caribbean feel to it? We will let you know hopefully later this year about that opinion!

We had one eye on the weather, you can see about 7 days in advance, and there was a glimmer of an opportunity for a crossing of the Bay of Biscay ahead. So we decided to head back towards Kinsale where we could sit and wait in comfort to see if it developed. Still time though to take in a couple of places on the way back. What turned out to be some glorious sailing too, mostly downwind for a change.

Leaving Bantry Bay behind, we rounded Mizen head again, whisked past the fastnet, and dropped the hook off Sherkin Island for a what turned out to be a rolly night at anchor.

One of those annoying nights where there is no wind, and only a slight swell on the sea surface, and your boat aligns itself at right angles to the swell and gets in to a ‘death roll’. Uncomfortable sleeping, but a first world problem at best when you look out the window at the view!

Another anchorage is never far away in these parts, so we moved about 2 miles round the corner just North of Baltimore and had a much more comfortable night. The groaning seals kept us entertained!

Our final stop on route to Kinsale was at Glandore for a must visit pub meal. The weather wasn’t the best, but the grub and Guinness were great and we played at sailing with the Saturday racing locals

So maybe you are wondering what the title of this blog entry actually means? Well according to Google (and I accept no responsibility for accuracy!) it means “farewell Ireland”.

We have to say another farewell to Caleb too. Its been a joy to have him onboard for so long sharing our journey. He is off to see his big brother in Belfast and will then wend his way back to Stirling via Nottingham to start his third year at Uni. Good luck Caleb!

Kinsale must have known something big was happening soon … last night they even put on fireworks for us in the anchorage!

We’ll see you all again soon, fingers crossed next time from Spain. Adios!

Roaring Water Bay

Its a great name isn’t it? And we will tell anyone who will listen what an awesome place this part of Southern Ireland is! You have scenery to die for. Little villages and towns that line the shores and welcome you in. Fantastic anchorages, great Guinness and the worlds friendliest people. What’s not to like?

So we sailed out of Kinsale on a slow breeze and a perfect summers evening to explore this great area and found the perfect anchorage for the night in a place called Broadstrand just south of CourtMacSherry.

The next day we set sail again and entered the narrow entrance of Castle Haven 35 miles down the coast. It was a brilliant sail, force 4 with flat seas and us tacking past the large headlands that jut out from the coast. You can hardly see the entrance to Castle Haven as you approach the coast, but then its entrance widens and round a dogleg lies the town of CastleTownshend, a sleepy pretty little place packed full of history. We anchored in the river outside the town and took a trip in the next day to see possibly the worlds strangest round-about, a bronze age fort and a delightful pub for the obligatory pint of Guinness.

A short sail up the coast took us to a spectacular spot to see the rapids at Lough Hyde. We anchored just outside the rapids at Barloge Creek nestled between cliffs with barely any room to swing. The anchorage was busy too. Lough Hyde is connected to Barloge Creek by a narrow channel which has an underwater sill. The tide flows in and out of the lough, but because the entrance is so narrow, not enough water can get through, and this forms a step in the sea and rapids between the Lough and the creek. Caleb and I took the dinghy and navigated the rapids when the two water levels were almost equal. We could only stay a short while in the lough before we had to get out again to avoid being trapped. It was a fun ride in the dinghy through the narrows going with the flow and getting spun about in the strong stream.

Another short sail up the coast took us to an anchorage just off the town of Baltimore. This place is a mecca for boating. Anchorage etiquette is clearly not observed here though and we were buzzed all day by all manner of high speed ribs and speedboats tearing there way to the dock to take advantage of the numerous bars and restaurants. Speaking of which, not wanting to be left out, we braved the melee too and visited a great pub called the Algerian for burgers and beer and took a hike up the striking navigation mark that guards the entrance to Baltimore Bay

Two nights of Baltimore bay speed boat madness was enough for us and we decided to seek solitude in an anchorage just round the corner off Hare Island. The heat hit us, but not as fiercely as that experienced in the UK. We took the dinghy to shore to enjoy the white sand beaches and have a walk around this pretty island.

With a blow predicted for the next evening, we made sail for an old favourite anchorage with more protection at Schull Harbour. (pronounced Skull). Another sailing mecca in the area and full of boats, many more than we had seen last time. Infact trying to get a space here on the dinghy dock was chaos involving pushing aside many of those ribs we had seen flying around in Baltimore. Our dingy ‘Danny Boy’ just about managed to squeeze in, and the reward for the passengers was fish and chips at the pier and a pint in town at the Bonratty Inn. Our friends Sam and Rosie from Zora were also in the anchorage for the night, so we paid them a visit for another great evening of sunset beers and wine. Thanks guys!

The next day, we took a walk round the headland from Schull via a small hamlet of Colla. It turned out to be a fantastic walk with stunning views of the area. The reward at the end was a visit to ‘Crepe Paradise’

That evening we took advantage of the wind angle and sailed down to another favourite anchorage at Crookhaven with a fine sail down Long Island sound and through Man of War Pass. All names that invoke the history of the area with Spanish Galleons and Pirates. Infact we saw a beautiful tallship pass us on the way.

Crookhaven is a superb all weather anchorage and almost completely enclosed. The place has a lovely feel to it, very relaxed although this time the shore was teeming with holiday makers. Don’t these land lubbers just get in the way?! Ailsa and I decided to try and walk to Mizen head. It proved to be a little too far on a hot day, but we did make it to Barley Cove and sat on the beach enjoying the views before returning to Crookhaven for a well earned ice cream.

Hopefully you get a feel for this area and why we love it so much!

From Portishead to Kinsale

The journey so far from Portishead to Kinsale has been a lot of fun. I think we are getting in to the swing of things and the nerves of leaving the UK have diminished over the last week. Its dawning on us now that the boat is truly home for the foreseeable future and the whole world lies ahead. Its been lovely too to have Ethan and Caleb on board, although they are already eating us out of house and home!

The day we left Portishead, the weather wasn’t very nice. The Bristol channel was putting up a fight as usual, with the wind on the nose gusting up to 30 knots and a short sea. Not to be daunted, we were prepared to put up the fight when with 2 hours our new furler that had been put on during the re-rig at great expense decided to start chafing through the furler control rope. Unable to fix this at sea, we were forced to turn on the engine and motor the rest of the way round to anchor in Swansea Bay off Mumbles Head. Not a great start!

The same day we left, our good friend John also sailed out of Portishead on his mission to cross the atlantic too!

John on Rival Spirit fighting his way down the Bristol Chanel to Barry.

Safely at anchor the next day in the Mumbles and with the furler issue fixed (fingers crossed) imagine our surprise when the red arrows suddenly flew across the bay over the top of Azimuth?! They really didn’t need to put on such a show just for us as we set off on our journey! Turns out that this was the weekend of the Swansea Air Show, unknown to us! And here we were in the bay with ring side seats to the whole event. In the right place at the right time? That never happens to us. That would explain why there were also so many other boats in the anchorage, where previously we had never seen anyone anchored here before We decided to stay, especially as it was still blowing hard out in the channel, and enjoy the show.

After a great weekend, we left the mumbles and set sail for Dale in Milford Haven. The Bristol channel other ideas, so after 6 hours of tacking, we gave up and went to Caldey Island just off Tenby instead! The next day we tried again, and had a great sail in to Dale dodgy the two firing ranges on the way.

Dale is a great place to anchor and we stayed for a couple of nights looking for a weather opportunity to cross the Irish Sea. At 130 miles, you need the right wind, and definitely not on the nose. Given the price of diesel these days, we don’t want to motor anywhere anymore, and now we have all the time in the world we don’t have to!

Ethan declared he was desperate to go to a pub! So we decided to take a visit to shore in Dale and visit the local shop and pub. We also went for a walk along the coast path which turned out to be very picturesque and well worth a visit if you are ever in the area.

The beer tasted really good after the walk, and so did the pizza takeaway from Dale Yacht Club!

So we were sat in Dale, looking at the weather for the crossing, and it didn’t look very promising, nothing consistent for days. What appeared was some short bursts of Northerly winds the next day interspersed with patches on no wind. So we decided, what the hell, lets just go for it. The crossing turned out to be a long one. The wind was actually as predicted, so we had periods of sailing at 9 knots interspersed with hours of being totally becalmed in flat seas in the middle of the Irish sea buzzed by fishing vessels and passenger ferries.

Finally we arrived in Kinsale about 8pm in the evening and motored in to the spectacular entrance of this vibrant town.

We have had a great time in Kinsale and were there for nearly a week. This little town is steeped in history. The Spanish invaded in 1601 and held the town for a month until they were kicked out again by James 1st. He built a fort at the entrance to the harbour to protect it. The spanish left their mark though with countless references throughout the town. In 1682 Charles 2nd built a much bigger fort that dominates the entrance to Kinsale which is shown in the picture above, and you sail in past it.

We had a chance to meet up with our freinds Niall and Bernadette whom we purchased Azimuth from on that fateful day 4 years ago, where a deal was struck in the pub! We have never regretted it since, and it was great to see them again and share sailing stories, and talk about all our plans ahead. It was also a great treat to see Zora sail in to Kinsale the day after we arrived and anchor up in the river right next to us. Sam and Rosie joined us for a raucous evening hosted by Niall and Bernadette on their fabulous boat La Courette in castle marina. Many thanks to them and we look forward to seeing you again before we depart Ireland!

Here’s some more pictures of us enjoying the delights of Kinsale!

A few days in to the stay we were delighted to welcome Ethan’s friend Joe back on board Azimuth for a couple of nights. The lads went out for a big session in Kinsale one evening!

Ethan & Joe

Despite Ethan’s hangover, the next day we talk a walk round the harbour and visited Charles Fort which was a great afternoon out.

I tried to recreate a moment in the Pearce family history involving our kids sat on cannons…. Not sure it worked that well?!

Finally we had to say goodbye to Joe and Ethan. Ethan is off to start a new working life in Belfast. We wish him all the best of luck and we shall miss him! STAY IN TOUCH ETHAN!!

Time to move on down the coast and revisit some more of our fave anchorages and explore some new ones ….

The Long Sail Home to Portishead

Saturday 4th September, 2021, Kinsale to Dale, Milford Haven

We woke up with thick heads! Both feeling hung over and had not slept well. So we headed in to Kinsale to get some supplies for the trip back and then pulled up the hook after some lunch and with a heavy heart (and head) started the long trip back to Wales.

The winds weren’t ideal for the trip back, but now we had no choice if we were to make it back in time for Vinnie to start college. Sailing on a schedule never works! It was a good start though, as we sailed out of Kinsale Harbour doing 8 knots on a beam reach. The forecast for the wind was from the South East and was due to veer further South later. That never happened! We had to fight our way across the Irish Sea. The sea state was not too bad, but the wind angle meant we could do one tack all the way up the coast to almost 15 miles from Dunmore East on the South East corner of Ireland. Then the wind completely died.

We motored for 6 hours directly towards Milford Haven towards the Traffic Separation Zone just off the first of the Smalls. Now the wind picked up again and we tacked our way across the TSS. Finally after waiting almost 24 hours, that Southerly wind kicked in. The last 25 miles were bliss with 6-8 knots at 60 degrees apparent which whisked us right round St Anne’s Head and into the entrance to Milford Haven. We motored the last couple of miles in to Dale and dropped the hook with a big sigh of relief.

165 miles in total; 28 Hours of sailing, and the 8th crossing of the Irish Sea! Arrived Sunday 5th August @ 1700.

Back in the anchorage at Dale

Monday 6th September, 2021, Dale to Portishead.

No rest for the wicked as they say. There was still 90 miles to go to get back to Portishead. In the end it was very easy. The wind gods decided to take a couple of days off. We were sad to be leaving and entering the muddy waters of the Bristol Channel once more, but we were looking forward to being re-united with Vinnie again!

We motored the whole way to Combe Martin, taking advantage of the strong tides. We saw a huge pod of dolphins, which is rare to see in the Bristol Channel in our experience. The the dreaded fog descended and we had to very slowly edge in to Combe Martin Bay to drop the hook for a 6 hour rest whilst we waited for the next tide.

Off again at 0100 to catch the tide….

It was a beautiful starry night as we motored back up the channel. We could clearly see the milky way, Jupiter and Saturn. It was a quick motor back on the Bristol Channel super highway, averaging 9 knots and as the sun came up, we were on the last leg up to Portishead. Finally we arrived at 0700 with an easy lock in and tied up at our old berth…. like we had never left!!!???

Darrynane Bay to Kinsale

Monday 30th August 2021, Darrynane Bay to Crookhaven

Time was moving on! We had to be back in Portishead for early September in time for Vinnie to go back to college. Today we checked the longer term forecast, and saw that a big Atlantic low was expected to hit Southern Ireland next week, which could potentially trap us in the Green Isle. I can think of worst places to be stuck, but Vinnie would not have appreciated it. So we decided we needed to make some headway by getting round two major headlands, Dursey Head and Mizen Head and back in to familiar territory that we had already explored a couple of years ago. Unfortunately this meant that we would have to sail past the Kenmare River which we hadn’t visited before, and across Bantry Bay which we had already explored extensively, but which we had definitely fallen in love with.

So we pulled out of Darrynane bay that morning with a long sail ahead. It was a nice downwind sail down to Dursley Head with some great views of the Bull, Cow and Calf Rocks

Once we rounded Dursley Head all hell broke loose. The sea state picked up and we experienced a 20 knot headwind. That made for long difficult tacks around Mizen head and finally we managed to sail round the headland in the dusk and make it in to Crookhaven anchorage just before it got completely dark. We were both completely exhausted!

Tuesday 31st August, 2021, Crookhaven to Baltimore

The next few days looked horrible on the South coast of Ireland with East headwinds up to Force 6 but the forecast look good for crossing the Irish sea once the low blows through. We had an easy sail past Cape Clear and the Fastnet, then all hell broke loose again! Baltimore Harbour offered some welcome protection, and we anchored off with the wind still blowing about 20 knots, but the sea flat.

Passing the Fastnet

Wednesday 1st September, 2021, Baltimore

The wind continued to blow with some strength along the south coast, so we decided to stop the day at anchor in Baltimore. Infact we ended up staying 2 nights. Annoyingly, we could see the pub, but because it was about half a mile to the shore, and we could only rown the dinghy, we didn’t feel confident enough to row to shore in the strong wind. So the time was passed reading and playing cards!

Friday 3rd September 2021, Baltimore to Kinsale

The wind had finally settled down, so we left Baltimore at 8 30 that morning and enjoyed NE winds for the first 3 hours which got us as far as the imposing stags further up the coast. These ship killer rocks, appear to change shape as you pass them.

After passing the stags, the wind swung more to the East, so we did some long tacks to make more progress up the coast. The conditions were really nice with light seas. We made the last tack past the Old head of Kinsale and all the way in to the entrance to Kinsale.

We slowly made our way through a fleet of sailing boats racing, and made our way up the river through the town and dropped anchor in the river just south of the castle park marina. The plan was to head in to town for the evening, and get back for an early night as we planned to sail back across the Irish Sea to Milford Haven tomorrow. We headed in to town and ended up at Kitty O See’s for a lovely meal. You can’t go to any pub in Ireland without striking up a conversation! Same was the case here and we were soon chatting to the neighbouring tables, a couple on hols from the USA and a couple visiting Kinsale from Clifden in Connemara, whom it turned out lived 20 minutes drive from Leenane, where we had visited on the way down the West Coast. Several rounds of drinks later, we stager out of the pub at closing time! So much for the early night?!

Exploring Dingle Bay

Friday 27th August, 2021, Brandon Bay to Ventry Bay

The west coast of Ireland is certainly fickle and changeable! The previous day had been a cloudless blue sky and warm sunshine. Today we woke up to thick pea soup fog. We literally couldn’t see the nearest boat anchored 50 metres away. On days like this, nothing else to do than break out the cards and stare out the window in to the gloom, hoping it will lift. Ailsa beat me at Skipbo twice in a row! Unheard of. By 3 30 that afternoon we were getting bored of waiting for the fog to lift. It was a little better, so we pulled up the anchor, and headed out under engine pretty much relying on the instruments and radar. There was thick fog all the way around the headland, a real shame as we didn’t get to see any of the Blasket Islands that are supposed to be spectacular. They were just shapes in the fog.

Looking back to the Blasket Islands in the fog.

Once we were in Dingle Bay, we watched the fishing fleet leaving Dingle to head out in to the Atlantic and as we arrived in Ventry Bay miraculously the fog finally lifted, so we anchored off the pier and a huge sand beach.

Saturday 28th August, 2021, Ventry Bay to Valencia Island

That morning we rowed the dinghy in to the pier where the kids were jumping in the sea (they do that alot along the west coast and seem to be impervious to the cold water!). Then we took a long walk down the beach and people watched.

We finally arrived at the little village at lunchtime. What do you know the pub was shut?! Seemed to be a theme for us! Thankfully the local post office store provided the means to make some sarnies which we ate on bench in the glorious hot sunshine.

We traced our steps back to Azimuth. Back on board, the heat must have played tricks with my mind. I had the urge to get rid of the beard I had been cultivating since the beginning of the trip! It was too bushy even for the trimmers, so Ailsa did the honours on deck with a pair of scissors, and the beard was consigned to the Atlantic Ocean! And before you ask, there was no taming of the head hair!

Feeling somewhat cooler (in the temperature sense), we pulled the anchor and sailed out of the bay in the late afternoon. We had a fantastic sail across Dingle bay over to Valencia Island, doing 7 knots on flat seas on a beam reach. We were accompanied by a large pod of dolphins for at least 30 minutes and enjoyed the scenery of the approach to Valencia.

We got to Valencia, where there is a partially built marina (just the outer pontoon) and we hoped to moor up for free for the night. However, everyone else had the same idea, and there was no room for Azimuth. The next alternative was the town anchorage. Yet again, the Irish had completely filled that with mooring buoys (with none occupied) and there was no space to actually anchor out of the tide! So we headed back to Glanleam Bay near the entrance to the protected Harbour. This proved to be a great choice. A really beautiful sheltered anchorage, out of the tide off a sandy beach.

Azimuth at anchor in Glanleam Bay.

We took the dinghy to the beach and walked to Knightstown on the Island. The Island is very green and luscious and has a tropical feel to it. We had a meal at the Valencia Royal Hotel and wandered around the town.

Sunday 29th August, 2021, Valencia Island to Darrynane Bay

Another fantastic day, so we decided to go and explore some more of Valencia Island. The previous evening we had seen a signpost to “The tetrapod dinosaur footprints”? So a quick search on the internet showed they were within walking distance of the anchorage. It turned out to be quite a hike up and over the mountain in the centre of the island and a walk all the way out to the Valentia coastguard station. Still it was a glorious day and the views were well worth the effort. The dinosaur prints were interesting too, discovered 20 years ago by a geology student who was wandering along the shoreline and noticed them. The picture below probably doesn’t do them justice!

We sailed out from Valencia Island at two that afternoon with the promise of wind. Just a few miles out, and the wind died! Oh and the fog descended! Really annoying as the coast here is spectacular, and the we were looking forward to views of the Skelligs (of Star Wars fame). Instead we ghosted along in the fog, with occasional glimpses of other boats and as we pulled in Darrynane bay for the night, the fog lifted again.

Darrynane Bay turned out to be a spectacular anchorage with a gorgeous sunset, crystal clear green water and flat calm seas. The view was a white sand beach and an old ruined abbey. A great place to rest up for the night.

Aran Islands to Brandon Bay

Tuesday 24th August, 2021, Inishboffin to Inishmore

After the embarrassment of keeling over in Inishboffin harbour (read about it in the previous post!) we made a quick exit from the anchorage at 0600 that morning, with a long sail planned down to Inishmore, one of the Aran Islands at the end of Galway Bay.

It was a glorious sunrise, with light winds from the South East that meant we were able to sail the entire way on a close hold and tacking down the coast. We were of course both completely exhausted, having been up most of the night, but the sun was shining, and the views were inviting.

As we got close to Inishmore, we heard the rush of air as a whale surfaced about 100m from the boat, the second whale siting of the trip. And we were once again joined on the journey by a pod of dolphins, which was to become a daily occurrence on the rest of the trip

We anchored in a pretty bay off a white sand beach called Portmurvy on the North East side of the Island, 50NM from Inishboffin.

Wednesday 25th August, 2021, Portmurvy to Shannon River

We woke to a reasonable size swell entering Portmurvy which meant meant we didnt want to chance rowing the dinghy in to shore on to the beach. Unfortunately that meant we couldn’t visit the iron age fort on Inishmore, so we weighed anchor and headed South again for Loop Head 36NM from the end of the Aran Islands.

We had fair winds for a couple of hours which got us away from the Aran Islands.

Eventually the wind died and we had to motor for a bit until we got closer to Loop head where the wind picked up again and blew us around in to the Shannon Estuary. The cliffs around Loop Head were imposing with very interesting geology with layers twisted and contorted, and the cliffs peppered with caves.

Once in the Shannon Estuary, we stuck our nose in to the first Anchorage option of Kilbaha Bay, but we didnt like the look of it as it felt very exposed and swelly. We were glad we carried on and rode the fast tide further up the estuary to the anchorage at Cariggaholt and anchored just off the end of the pier in the front of a tall castle tower. This was a much nicer and secure bay, especially as the wind started to pick up from the North East.

Azimuth at Anchor in the bay

We took the dinghy to shore and visited the little village. Couldn’t get in the restaurant, so settled for a takeaway from “Max Bites” and then an illicit visit to the the castle for a closer look.

Thursday 26th August, 2021, Carrigaholt to the Margharees and Brandon Bay

We left Carrigaholt Bay at 1130 when the tide turned to leave the Shannon Estuary and motored out of the Bay. The tide at the narrowing entrance gave us an SOG of 11 knots!

With the strong tide and the light winds, there was scope to sail, and we downwind sailed all the way to the Kerry head at the end of the estuary until the wind died.

On with the motor again and we transited the last 7 miles to the Margharee Islands and dropped the anchor next to Illauntannig. This tiny island hosts 6th century monastic remains with beehive huts made of stone, so we took the dinghy in to shore to go and visit.

6th century monastic remains on Illauntannig

Its an exposed spot, and when the wind picked up and the swell started to roll in, we decided it was not the best spot to anchor for the night. So we weighed anchor and headed a 6 miles further west down the coast to Brandon Bay protected by Sheveglass mountain and had a comfortable night.

Clew Bay, Killary Lough & Inishboffin

Friday 20th August, 2021 Broadhaven Bay to Achill Sound

Another headland to go round … the west coast is littered with them and none of them are easy! Today was a drizzly rainy day with poor visibility. We sailed downwind to Eris Head after leaving Broadhaven Bay. As we rounded the head, the wind was now a close hold and Tacked down the coast. Further South, and the wind was kind, and swung us out past Achill head in the mist and the gloom. It rained hard most of the way. It was a shame the weather was so bad as the views along this coast are supposed to be some of the best coastline in Ireland! At one point the top of the mountain appeared from the cloud and I captured these…

Once we rounded Achill Head, we were hoping for a downwind sail to take is towards Clew Bay, but the wind was too light with the rough sea state, so we motored for two hours. We rounded Achillbeg Island and stuck our nose in to Achill sound to investigate an anchorage. It was way to shallow and not obvious where to go, so we chickened out and anchored off the beach on the East side of Achillbeg. It was a nice easy night until 6am the next morning when we started to drag anchor towards the beach and the rocks!

Saturday 21st August, Achillbeg to Killary Lough

We departed at 0900 and sailed due South to Killary Lough across the mouth of Clew Bay, past Claire Island and along the Connemara coastline. It was a fabulous sail with a beam reach up to 9 knots and then downwind in to the mouth of the Lough. The entrance is framed by mountains, and the heading is marked by some concrete pillars through the narrows

We motored through the narrows and down the long narrow loch avoiding the mussel farms all along the edge and anchored right at the end off the town of Leenaun.

Once we were anchored up, we rowed to shore (yep the outboard engine was still knackered!) and went to a bizzare shop inside the local pub, and had a great lunch at the blackberry cafe where we sampled the mussels from the Lough, and fish and chips … delicious. We rowed back to the boat and chilled out for the rest of the day enjoying the amazing scenery of the place. We were the only boat in the whole anchorage!

Sunday 22nd August, 2021, Leenaun to Inishbofin

We left the next morning and there was zero wind, so we motored back out of the Lough through the narrows and across the bay to Inishboffin through all the rocks and small isles. Inishboffin is recognised as being one of the finest all weather anchorages on the west coast and has a big maritime history. The entrance is very tricky with reefs and rocks, but the installation of a leading light makes it easier to navigate. Once inside, you are immediately greeted by the ruins of a Cromwellian fort on your starboard side, and the blue water and sandy bottom of the totally enclosed anchorage. Its a beautiful place. However, the anchorage is tricky, cause the Irish seem to love to fill all their most popular anchorages up with fixed moorings, so it took us some time to find a spot that we could fit in. Its really shallow too!

We took the dinghy to shore and went and explored the fort which is still pretty intact even though it in places it overhangs the rocks and you look straight down in to the sea.

Then we went for a walk to explore the east side of the island past white sandy beaches and family holiday homes. It felt very much like the Scilly Isles, and was very popular with the locals arriving by ferry.

We ended up at the Doonbar hotel for tea but had to sit outside in the chill. A few pints of the blackstuff provided some alcoholic insulation

Tuesday 24th August, Inishboffin, disaster strikes!

The forecast was for no wind, and the sun was shining, so we decided to stay another day and walk more of the island. This time we headed west to take in the views of more sandy beaches, rocky coastline and peat bog paths.

We went to the pub for lunch and chilled out for the rest of the day on the boat. We decided on an early night cause we planned on an early start for the next leg South. We were both woken at 23 30 when we were tipped out of bed as the boat fell over! That was very disconcerting…. the anchorage was flat calm and there was no wind??? What the hell was happening? It turns out we had run aground. We had been in this anchorage for two days at this point, and the boat had been drifting around in an arc of about 270 degrees. Now it looked like the boat had drifted in to the final 90 degrees of the arc closest to the beach, and in conjunction with the low tide had come to rest on a sandbank at the back. She was still floating at the front.

Well there is not a lot you can do in this situation …. Azimuth weighs 31 tonnes. You can’t just get out and push her off! Checking the tide we still had another 80 cms to drop, so all we could do was check the bilge to make sure we weren’t taking on any water and then sit out the whole process for the next 4 hours! By 0100 in the morning, the boat was right over on her side… with the toe rail under water and fish swimming over the deck! The pub across the water was in full swing with music and laughter …. however maybe lucky for us the fog came in, so in the darkness no one could witness our embarrassing situation! Over the next three hours, Azimuth started to slowly right herself. Thankfully, there was still no waves or wind, and finally we lifted off at 4 in the morning. I pulled in some of the anchor chain and climbed in to bed. I think we survived!

Exploring Donegal Bay

Monday 16th August 2021, Rossillon Bay, Aran Island

We had a rough night at anchor. At high tide, the swell came over the reefs that protect this bay and the wind picked up from the North West. It was time to have a day off and relax with lots of reading, playing the Pearce Family favourite “Skipbo” and watching films.

Tuesday 17th August, 2021, Rossillon Bay to Teelin

The wind still remained strong from the North West and it was another rough night at anchor, but it still felt better than working for a living! The weather was being tricky, but it looked like the wind was set to drop later in the afternoon, and might allow us to sneak round the corner in to Donegal Bay, which would mean sailing around another of the big Atlantic headlands Malinmore head.

We left the anchorage out through the narrow channel and were met by big seas! 2 to 2.5m waves and a big swell from the North West which we had to take on the beam to head further South. Poor Azimuth was being thrown around a bit, and poor Ailsa didn’t fair well either! The wind was blowing about 25 knots from the W/NW so with two reefs in the main we tried to sail with the Staysail, but struggled to get any decent speed to cut through the swell and the wind angle was poor, which meant it would be difficult to get round Malinmore head. So, we furled out the genoa with two reefs, and Azimuth heeled over and started to dance through the waves, slicing at 8 knots. As we approached the headland, the seas grew , so I manoeuvred us further offshore.

Finally I could turn further south to round the island of Rathlin O’ Birne. We surfed down the swell on a beam reach and hit 12.7 knots! A new record for us in Azimuth. Eventually we could turn downwind in to Donegal Bay, and we had a great ride surfing down the waves, until eventually the headland sheltered us from the wind, and we found we didn’t have sufficient wind to stop the genoa from flogging in the swell. Time to motor the last few miles in to Teelin

It was an overcast and misty day, but even though the conditions were tough, the coastline here was majestic. Some of the biggest cliffs in Ireland, with cascading waterfalls. We were accompanied by dolphins too. Teelin harbour finally appeared ahead, and once inside, it provided great protection with no swell. We both slept for 10 hours!

Wednesday 18th August, 2021, Teelin Harbour to Killala Bay

The wind prediction for today was light winds up to Force 4. So we set off with trepidation to cross Donegal Bay! When we got out of Teeling Harbour, the swell picked up from the North West again. The sea state was not as bad as the day before, however, the wind was much stronger than predicted! So with 1 reef in the main and genoa we whisked across at 8 knots with 45-60 degree apparent. Ailsa was worried about feeling sick again, but she was absolutely fine. It turned out to be a really nice sail and we entered Kilalla Bay which is wide open to the North. However, we found a really comfortable anchorage behind St Patricks Rocks off Ross point outside of the Kilalla bar. We would have liked to cross the bar but we could only do that at high tide, and that would have restricted the times for departure again.

Thursday 19th August 2021, Kilalla Bay to Broadhaven

We left Kilalla Bay at about lunchtime, after a chat with some friendly local fisherman. The winds were forecast to be very light and the sun was shining. So motor sailing was the order of the day and we worked our way along the South coast of Donegal Bay, enjoying the scenery and the amazing geology.

Downpatrick Head was a real highlight along the coast with its flat limestone and shale strata and distinctive 50m high sea stack.

Further down the coast as we entered Broadhaven Bay the views of the coast and the Stags that guard the entrance were also breathtaking

The anchorage in Broadhaven Bay was on sand in crystal clear water. We had a really comfortable night.