Tuesday 3rd August, South Harris to Skye
Our jaunt to the Outer Hebrides had been fun, but the lure of Skye in the distance was stronger and with the favourable winds we decided to sail back across the Minch and go and explore the west coast of Skye.
The Minch was flat calm and we sailed across on a close hold averaging 5 to 6 knots dodging the big ships sailing up the coast. On reaching Skye we sailed in to Loch Bay south of the Waternish Penisula. As we entered the Loch, the wind gusted and we found ourselves heeled over hard doing 9 knots even with the sails depowered. We decided to anchor at the end of Loch Bay where a stream reaches the loch. It was a spectacular place with a wooded shore and steep cliffs. Very sheltered too even though the wind was still gusting down the loch.
Wednesday 4th August, 2021, Dunvegan Castle
We left Loch Bay at 10 in the morning and sailed downwind until the wind fluked around the headland and on to the nose. The next section was tricky navigation with the chart showing a small channel between the island and a large reef in the main channel. We motored through, but unfortunately a boat called Amazing Grace hadn’t checked their charts carefully enough and had ended up on the reef. We called them up on the radio to offer some assistance, but they were OK and just had to wait a couple of hours for the tide to lift them off. We heard later on the radio that they had floated free later on.
Once through the narrow channel, we entered Loch Dunvegan and faced 20 knots of headwinds, so motored down the loch and in to Castle Bay at the end. The anchorage is right in front of the castle. But now the wind was gusting force 7! We dropped the hook, and then proceed to drag towards the back of the bay where its very shallow. We reset again and stuck out 60 metres of chain. This time the anchor held.
We tried to start the outboard and snapped the cord!
Doh! So now its a full strip down of the starter, find some compatible string, and we are up and running again in time to get to shore for some grub!
The castle has a dinghy dock, so we thought that would be an easy place to moor up? We had a pleasant walk through the castle grounds and got to the entrance gates to find we were locked in! So we quickly backtracked to the dinghy and trundled further up the loch towards the little village of Dunvegan. Time to stock up at the Spar and then join the huge queue with lots of people from the local campsite for the one takeaway restaurant, the Misty Cafe. We sat outside on a bench in the evening sunshine eating our pizza’s just as the midges came out, the first we had seen in Scotland so far this year. A quick retreat back to the dinghy and what do you know, the outboard wont start! A saga begins! It was a long row back to the boat, but with nice views. We even saw the former 18th century Dower House of Dunvegan Castle that we had stayed in with our friends Gill & Guy a few years back.
Thursday 5th August, Loch Scavaig & the Black Cullin
We left Dunvegan in the early afternoon and sailed out past the headland close to the huge cliffs and Neist Point lighthouse.
As we got further south, the views opened up of the Black Cullin on the horizon. Sea conditions and winds were perfect for a fast close hold sail towards Loch Scavaig which lies right at the foot of these mountains. On the way we were accompanied by a pod of Dolphins and we watched them play at the bow of the boat for at least 10 minutes. Quite amazing, as we were doing 7-8 knots at the time!
It definitely is one of Scotland’s finest anchorages, and we dropped the hook close to one of the rocks with lots of seals basking in the sunshine.
Friday 6th August, 2021
We took the canoe out to explore the loch, and after we had walked up to see Loch Coruisk which feeds on to Scavaig, we decided to drag the canoe up and take a paddle right up to the foot of the Cullin. Truly breath-taking views. it was a hard paddle in to the wind, and we got out at the beach right at the bottom of the caldera. Forgot to take the camera! But just so you get an idea of the place, I stole some pics of the internet below!
We drifted back down Loch Coruisk with the wind and then I paddled / pushed the canoe back along the shallow rapids that connects the two lochs together and relaunched the canoe via a slippery mountain of seaweed. As we were heading the 200m back to the yacht, we heard a hissing noise and thought we had punctured the canoe! Fortunately it was just one of the valves in the seats that had come loose, so crisis was averted. A very special place to visit
Seen dolphins on our bows doing 20 knots it is amazing, do it for fun. Amazing photos
They are really cool animals. We have had loads of interactions with dolphins, but they do seem to be more playful the faster you go!