Last time we left you in Union Island in St Vincent and the Grenadines. This time we sail south again and visit the island(s) of Grenada.
First stop was the Island of Carriacou, where we signed in to the country after dropping the hook in Tyrell Bay.
It felt like a partial return to civilisation after islands of the Grenadines. Tyrell Bay was full of yachts at anchor in front of a long sandy beach with a port at one side and boat yards. The town even had a couple of supermarkets and some nice restaurants that we took advantage of. It wasn’t the most inspiring of places though and maybe we have been a bit spoilt in the Grenadines? We did have a great dinner of red snapper though purchased still barely alive from the local fisherman delivered directly to the boat
We spent a few days here and then decided to move South again down towards the main island of Grenada. Our interest was piqued by the little Ronde Island on the way down and we decided to stop the night in a delightful anchorage.
We took the canoe to the little scrap of beach and landed in the swell and then spent a couple of hours snorkelling off the beach where there was a large reef teeming with fish.
The next day we set sail to Grenada proper. It was a glorious sail across smooth seas and down the west coast of Grenada which is a very dramatic island
We ummed and arred about an anchorage on the west coast but it looked like we would have to take a mooring buoy, so eventually we sailed round the south west corner and dropped the anchor in the attractive Prickly Bay where for the purposes of this post, we have been ever since.
Time to go and explore the local area. First stop, the marvellous discovery of decent beer!!! After a little stroll along the main road in Prickly bay we came across a place we had spotted in the guide book called the West Indian Brewery Company. It had to be investigated further and we were not disappointed!
As you can see, a proper micro brewery was hidden inside and the really friendly staff bent over backwards to make sure you sampled all the delights they had to offer! Real beer at crazy cheap prices is a recipe for success if you ask me and we have spent one or two visits enjoying the delights.
Just round the corner from this is prickly bay marina who have a great restaurant too and the promise of live music. So one Friday night we paid them a visit and enjoyed this steel band
We’ve taken a couple of day trips out on the local buses. They are as ever excellent value as long as you are willing to brave the crazy driving the cramped conditions and the distinct lack of suspension. Also great fun too, but it is sometimes difficult to talk over the large reggae sound system that each bus carries! So we took the bus to go and visit Grenada’s captial St Georges. It was a very vibrant place full of hustle and bustle. The main attraction for Ailsa had to be the Grenada Chocolate Museum and Shop. For me it was the vies of the town as we strolled around.
With our confidence improving, we decided to embark on a longer bus journey to go and explore the mountainous interior of this beautiful island. This time it would involve picking up a second bus from St Georges and working out where to get off to go and visit the Seven Sisters waterfall. We made it relatively easily with a tortuous ride up the mountain, reminiscent but arguably not quite as crazy as our previous St Lucian bus experience. We paid our 5 $EC entrance fee (about £1.50) where given bamboo walking sticks and sent on our way with some brief instructions in to a magical rain forest experience.
The temperature we realised was a much balmier 25 degrees compared to the 30 or so degrees at sea level. So it was a pleasant stroll through the bamboo, navigating our way down some precipitous and slippery steps towards the waterfall (thank goodness for the bamboo walking sticks). The sounds of the birds were pretty raucous and it felt altogether very prehistoric. Finally we came upon a river in the forest and walked up towards the sound of falling water
I couldn’t resist the opportunity for a swim and it was lovely and refreshing although I couldn’t manage to get right in to the falls as the current was quite strong.
We took our time enjoying the falls and then hiked back out to the road. A couple of miles further along and we came to Grand Etang, a crater lake in a volcano that has been extinct for 12000 years, and was now full of goldfish! It let us know we were in a rain forest and started tipping down with rain. So refreshing though in this heat.
We even saw a couple of monkeys in the park!
After the long bus journey(s) back to the boat, we were pretty exhausted, but it was definitely worth the effort.
Join us next time when we explore a bit more of Grenada.
Last time we left you, we were still anchored in Bequia, and having such a nice time, we were somewhat reluctant to move on! But move on we must, and actually, there was a huge amount more of the Grenadines waiting to be explored!
The first attempt to leave actually failed miserably. When Ailsa pressed the button to pull up the anchor there was nothing! The windlass was completely inoperable, so engine off, I then spent the next 3 days trying to find and fix the problem. Our windlass is hydraulically driven by a pump that is driven from the engine. Some of you may recall I had already had some issues with the windlass and had to come up with a fix in Martinique. Now it was looking like a more serious problem. Initially I thought damn, we are going to have to head to Grenada, the nearest place with boatyards, and get someone to help us diagnose and fix the hydraulics. It was quite depressing and it looked like we would have to try and get the anchor up by hand. This is something I had done once before in Scotland and it was far from easy. So I set about trying to diagnose the fault myself and learnt a good deal about hydraulics in the process. The pressure in the system actually looked good under load. This had me confused as the windlass was working the last time we used it when we left St Lucia. I could hear fluid flowing through the windlass motor, but there was no resultant movement. It took me three days in the end and I found that the issue was the gearbox again. Basically there was no oil left in it, it was full of dirt and pretty much seized up. So after a dismantle, clean and oil, we were back in business. After three days in the heat stuck in the anchor locker, I was overjoyed when it jumped to life. My celebration was cut short when a big gust of wind blew the door of the locker (heavy!) which proceeded to land on my head!!
They say cruising is doing boat jobs in paradise??? I am definitely starting to understand!
Attempt two to leave was successful, and we were both sad to say goodbye to Bequia. We left the harbour on a downwind sail and got a look at Bequia’s “moonhole”, a bizarre group of houses built in the 1960’s in to the side of the cliffs which have since been abandoned.
It was a gorgeous sail south to the little island of Canouan where we dropped the anchor in what turned out to be the very rolly bay of Charlestown.
We decided not to dwell here, so after an uncomfortable night, we left early the next morning and headed for Tobago Cays. Now this was something else! It is a tiny group of islands south of Canouan which makes up a marine national park. Tobago Cays was made famous by the film Pirates of the Caribbean as one of the islands was where Jack Sparrow got washed up and buried his treasure??
We anchored right in the middle of the islands, pumped up the canoe and set off to explore.
The place is stunningly beautiful, a small group of islands, surrounded and protected from the Atlantic ocean by horseshoe reef. Its hard to describe the colour of the sea here. Hopefully the pictures do it some justice.
The snorkelling was amazing and we had our first ever encounter with Turtles in their natural habitat. Have a look at the video I shot with the GoPro…
Jack Sparrow Island
We had a lovely day exploring, and that evening we went to the main island for a barbeque of fish and chicken. It was a very cool little place, all set up as an outdoor restaurant. Before we ate we spent some time watching the fish and the spotted rays feeding on the fish scraps being thrown in to the water as the chefs were preparing the food.
We met up with another cruising couple called Caroline and Ken from the UK and Australia. They invited us back to their Catamaran “Water Music” for drinks and we had a lovely evening chatting about their and our adventures so far. A lovely couple and we hope to meet them again as we both cruise south towards Grenada.
It costs a fair bit to stay in Tobago Quays so the next day we moved to the Island of Mayreau which is about 2 miles away and anchored in Troisant Bay off the beach with great views of Union Island. Unfortunately it was another rolly night! So we didn’t actually land on Mayreau but headed for Union Island where we had to check out of St Vincent and the Grenadines within a few days.
Another short but beautiful downwind sail had us dropping the hook in a stunning anchorage called Chatham Bay on the west side of Union Island.
This bay was really sheltered from the swell and with a beautiful colour to the sea, it was like having our own enormous swimming pool.
First order of action was to go for a swim!. We chilled out for the whole day, swimming and snorkelling and watching the rays and fish nibbling on the growth on our chain.
All along the beach is a number of ramshackle bars and throughout the day we were visited by all the proprietors inviting us to visit their bars for the happy hour at sunset. We decided to visit the one recommended by the guide book, Seki and Vanessa’s place. It was very chilled out, drinking rum punch, listening to reggae and watching the sun go down, whilst meeting some of the locals, including Eldon who lived in a shack next door to the bar and had been fishing and living on the beach for the last 40 years!
We were short on cash and there was no ATMs around here other than in Clifton, about 5 miles away. Seki and Vanessa were very relaxed about the whole situation and just trusted us to pay for our drinks the next day after we had chance to get to the bank! We promised we would be back to try out their food too.
The next day we got up early and had a fantastic walk right across the island. It was pretty hot and we had a big climb to get out of the bay, but the view was well worth the effort. We made a new friend too, when one of the local dogs decided to come along for the walk. He followed us for about 3 miles until the heat got too much for the poor chap and he collapsed under a tree in the shade.
Close to Clifton, we walked past some salt flats that claimed to have resident flamingos. We didn’t see any!
Finally, after a 5 mile walk in the heat, we made it to the town. First we had to check out of the country which was pretty painless, then visit the bank and then we went to look for a cold drink. As in often the case, we were accosted by one of the locals, an old guy called Parrot. He insisted that we needed to avoid the local tourist bars and he would take us the locals bar! It was actually very cool. The bar had about 20 people in there, and they looked after us. One guy gave Ailsa a piece of cardboard for her to use as a fan because she looked so hot. Seats were provided at the bar, and we spent to next hour talking to lots of interesting people … the local musician, Bert, Andre the bar owner, and Chris the local “gangster” who was well in to his third rum of the day celebrating his 66th birthday!
We finally managed to extricate ourselves from the bar with promises to return someday, flagged down a local minibus and got a lift back to the top of Chatham Bay Hill. A lot easier than walking.
By mid afternoon we were back on the boat, swimming and relaxing, and then that evening we headed back to Seki and Vanessa’s bar where we were treated to a delicious dinner prepared on the BBQ with the sunset views of the bay. It don’t get much better than this!
We have to say that the Grenadines really are special and well worth a visit if you ever find yourself in this part of the world. The experience was made really special for us by the friendliness of the local people and welcome they gave us everywhere we went.
Join us next time as we sail south to Carriacou and Grenada to continue our windward islands adventure.
So some of you may have heard of this phenomenon? Under the right conditions, when the sun sets (or rises), just as it disappears over the horizon, there is sometimes seen a green flash of light which lasts a couple of seconds. We are sure we have seen a few of these now and Bequia was a great place to observe it. I have been trying to capture it on camera for a while with not much success, but this time I think I might just have got it. Using our Nikon camera I took a fast sequence of shots as the sun set over the horizon
Sequence of photos taken as sun setZoomed in! Ok its blurred, but can you see green????
So why do we get a green flash? Here’s what Wikipedia has to say on the subject …
Green flash occurs because the atmosphere causes the light from the Sun to separate, or refract, into different frequencies. Green flashes are enhanced by mirages, which increase refraction. A green flash is more likely to be seen in stable, clear air, when more of the light from the setting sun reaches the observer without being scattered. One might expect to see a blue flash, since blue light is refracted most of all and the blue component of the sun’s light is therefore the last to disappear below the horizon, but the blue is preferentially scattered out of the line of sight, and the remaining light ends up appearing green.
So there you go, I will keep trying to capture this amazing phenomenon!
Last time we left you I was celebrating my birthday having just arrived in Bequia. Now we have been here for a few more days let us show you around a bit more of this beautiful Island. Definitely our favourite of the Caribbean islands we have visited (so far!)
Admiral Bay is a gorgeous setting. Steep sided hills around 3 sides and a great view of the sunset from the back of the boat every evening. We decided to the explore some of the Island with a couple of walks. We even tried to get up early to avoid the heat of the day! Not sure we succeeded though, as we move towards summer it is definitely starting to get alot hotter here. Infact as far as the Bequians are concerned, this is almost the end of the season for them, as they wind everything down and shut up at the end of May, and then take the summer off.
The first walk we did was to explore the large hill to the South of Admiralty Bay called Peggy’s Rock
Peggy’s Rock Walk
The first part was a nice easy stroll down the road to friendship bay with great views to the south of the island
Then we found the little track that started the climb up to Peggy’s Rock. Things got somewhat tougher! It was hot and the track was steep and rocky. It was quite a slog to get to the top.
However, it was well worth the effort. The view from the top looking in all directions was spectacular. We spent a good 30 minutes catching our breath and cooling down.
Arguably it was even harder getting down! The path made its way down a treacherous old river bed at an alarming angle which involved a good deal of navigation on our behinds. Finally we hit a concrete road that dropped us to Lower Beach and the chance to cool off in the crystal clear waters! Also, a great lunch stop at “Da Reef” bar for a well earned burger.
We pretty much collapsed on our return to the boat and needed about 2 days to recover!
The sunsets here are really spectacular. Here is a flavour. We get this every night as entertainment as we sit and eat dinner on the back deck.
We decided to risk another walk, this time towards the North end of the Island, a loop that would take us on to the top of the hill and out to Spring Bay hopefully for another swim at, this time on one of the windward beaches that faces the power of the Atlantic.
Spring Park Loop Walk
The start of the walk was a long climb out of Port Elizabeth up past some very fancy houses. Bequia has another side to it, playground of the rich. We were rewarded with some nice views on the way up and at the top. Here we are looking out over the west coast of Bequia and North towards St Vincent.
After reaching the top, the path followed the road steeply down towards Spring Bay beach, past some seriously nice millionaires villas.
Finally we arrived at Spring Bay and were definitely ready for a swim, but we were sadly disappointed, the beach which should have been fantastic was piled high with rotting Sargasso weed. This has been very prevalent in the Caribbean this year, and piles up on the windward beaches. The smell I’m informed was pretty bad. I guess losing my sense of smell over a year ago was an advantage today
We headed back along the road, and finally dropped back in to Port Elizabeth for a well earned lunch at Maria’s café which is on the sea front looking out over Admiral Bay
We’ve had a couple of nights out at a lovely restaurant on the bay with its own dinghy dock called the Fig Tree. The staff there are incredibly friendly. Infact, everyone in Bequia is incredibly friendly, no hassle and really genuine. They really welcome yachties here. If you get the chance, a very cool place to go on holiday too.
Join us next time as we sail south again and go and explore some more of the Grenadine Islands.
Last time we left you we were in the Rodney Bay in St Lucia. In this post we explore St Lucia a little more, make some new friends, and sail south to the beautiful island of Bequia, one the Grenadines in the country of St Vincent and the Grenadines.
So we met some lovely people in the last two weeks. In Rodney Bay we were anchored next to a striking boat called Endorphin Beta, a Moody 54. We had been there a couple of days, and Colin came over to introduce himself. We invited him over to Azimuth for a sunset beer that evening and I think its safe to say we all got on very well! Dr Colin Porteous, a retired surgeon from Scotland is a character for sure. Colin and his wife Izzi had just completed their 10 year circumnavigation by sail. Congratulations to them on this amazing achievement! Izzi had flown back to Germany to visit their new grandchild who had been born whilst they were sailing from South Africa to the Caribbean.
Endorphin Beta in Rodney Bay
We had several lovely evenings with Colin during our stay in Rodney Bay and got to hear many of the stories of their travels around the world. Very inspirational stuff for us as we settle in to our own journey. By all accounts, the things ahead of us sound truly amazing and we look forward to what is to come!
Later in our stay in Rodney Bay, some more friends of Colin arrived on their boat Maia, They had met each other in South Africa. We had a lovely evening together. Laura and Dick had also nearly completed their circumnavigation. They were headed North up the East Coast of America. We hope to keep in touch and maybe our paths will cross again! Laura and Dick have complete a mammoth sail over the last nine months, all the way from Queensland in Australia to the Caribbean!
We wish Colin fair winds as he travels back to Scotland across the Atlantic in the next couple of months. Fair winds to Laura and Dick too on their passage up to the USA.
MaiaColin, Laura & Dick
Whilst we were in St Lucia, we celebrated our 23rd Wedding Anniversary with lunch in a nice restaurant next to the marina.
So we had one other adventure of note whilst on St Lucia and that was a visit by local minibus to visit the little town of Soufriere nestled beneath the volcanoes (the Pitons) on the South end of the Island. We set off from the marina dock early, unsure of the logistics of the local buses. As soon as we arrived at the bus stop, a local minibus was already picking up other people and whisked us off the capital of St Lucia, the bustling town of Castries. So far so good, and extremely cheap too. We negotiated our way through the bustling market place, with mountains of tempting fresh fruits and veggies and found the back street where you catch the bus for the next leg to Soufriere. There were two seats left, which we squeezed ourselves in to with the other locals and off we went. The next hour and a half was exhilarating indeed! The road winds its way up and down the steep precipitous mountains with tortuous hairpins. We clung on for dear life as the driver of the bus drove like a rally driver, taking the hairpins at speed with the tyres squealing, performing overtaking manoeuvres on impossible sections of roads that would have impressed any rally driver, whilst the engine screamed for mercy! Looking about the van, the rest of the passengers didn’t seem to think anything of it, just another day on the bus?! But oh the views were something else, the jungle would suddenly give way to spectacular panoramas as we hit the next summit, and we would drop in to pretty bays and seaside towns at the bottom of steep ravines. Still it was nice to arrive at our destination! it was already lunchtime when we arrived and the last bus was leaving again for Castries at 4 that afternoon. So we took a few hours to have lunch at a local restaurant and explore the local area. We made it to the Diamond Falls botanical gardens which boasts volcanic rock pools for bathing only to find it was cash only and we didn’t have enough money, doh! Still it was worth the effort to see the rest of the town before boarding the crazy bus to get back to Rodney Bay!
In total we were in St Lucia for over two weeks. Our friends were moving on, and we felt the same urge too. So we planned our next sail to head to St Vincent and the Grenadines. We had heard some bad things about crime and hassle in St Vincent, so we decided to skip that Island and head straight for the Grenadines instead. We left at 5 in the morning to allow us enough time to sail the 72 miles south and reach the island of Bequia just before it got dark.
Early StartTowards the PitonsPetit Piton & SoufrierePitonsPetit PitonPetit PitonGrand PitonBoth PitonsLeaving St LuciaSailing down St LuciaSoufriereSummitKingstownApproaching BequiaSailing past St Vincent
It was a lovely sail with a bit of motoring to get through the lulls down the sides of St Lucia and St Vincent. We arrived just before dark and dropped the hook in Admiral Bay in Bequia. The next day it was my birthday!! What a place to spend it…. first impressions of Bequia was that this place is stunning…. We woke early and checked in to the country and then headed for a walk down the St Margaret Trail to see the local beaches
Exploring St Margaret Bay and Lower Bay
We had passed some great bars and restaurants on our walk so we headed back for a birthday lunch at Mac’s Pizza Kitchen. Oh and a couple of cocktails ….
Lunch at Mac’s
After that it got a bit silly…. the rum punch was flowing a little too easily at the “Whalebone” Bar. We had a great afternoon and met some cool people.
Birthday Shenanigans
One cocktail too many I think, but somehow we still managed to stumble back to town, board the dinghy and head back to the boat via the anchorages floating bar! Once there we realised Ailsa had left her phone in the previous place …. doh! Amazingly it was still there when we zipped back to their dock in the dinghy. Back to Azimuth where we pretty much collapsed for the evening! All in all a pretty perfect birthday I would say?
We are looking forward to exploring more of this island, so join us next time!
Last time we updated you on our journey we were enjoying the Carnival experience in Fort de France in Martinique. In this update, we move the boat to the south of Martinique to Le Marin and then head south to St Lucia, the next of the Windward Islands.
We took a couple of days to recover from the Carnival! It was a great experience, and hopefully something we will get to do again in other parts of the Caribbean.
Some final views of Fort de France
So we pulled up the anchor and sailed south towards the port of Le Marin. This port is well known as being one of the best places to get things fixed on your boat in the Caribbean, and we definitely had some stuff to fix. It was almost as if Azimuth knew this, and as we rounded Diamond Rock for the final leg in to Le Marin, hard on the wind, there was a bang from the top of the mast as the Genoa sail head webbing snapped and the sail started to fall down! Fortunately it didn’t fall too quickly and we were able to the furl it away before disaster struck. On with the engine to get us the last 5 miles in to the bay.
Le Marin is a bewildering place. It’s a very protected anchorage which is rammed to full with yachts! We estimated there must have been a 1000 yachts at anchor or on moorings, as well as a huge marina. We squeezed ourselves in to a spot quite far out from the shore as there was not a lot of room and further in all the boats are on moorings. You also have to avoid the many shallow reefs that litter the bay, as well as the many boat wrecks that also seem to be prevalent!
Someone climbing on one of the many wrecks in Le Marin!
Marin certainly did have lots of places to get work done on your boat as well as numerous chandleries, restaurants, shops and supermarkets. We navigated our way around the various districts and started to make lists of all the stuff we needed. First job was to get the sail repaired. We had been keeping the Genoa going all season, but the UV strip had been getting more and more frayed, and now with the failure of the webbing at the head, it was time to get it properly fixed. There are at least 3 sail lofts in Marin. All of them were complaining of being stupidly busy. Eventually we agreed to get it fixed with North Sails, but we were going to have to wait 4 weeks to get it done!
Oh well, plenty of other things to do right?! One of the biggest issues apart from the sail was our anchor windlass. It had been sounding pretty bad of late, and also after a particularly difficult anchorage where we got the anchor stuck under a rock, and another where our anchored snagged a chain, the whole assembly felt loose and at an alarming angle! I almost dreaded opening the locker and taking a look. A new windlass would be very expensive. The prognosis didn’t look good! Under our windlass their is a heavy duty wormgear gearbox that bridges the connection between the hydraulic motor and the windlass shaft. This gear box is made of cast aluminium, and the flange that held the gearbox in place underneath the windlass had literally corroded completely away! All 4 mounting points had failed, leaving the gear box hanging on the shaft and free to rotate and presumably eventually fall off. Not a great situation. The windlass has to deal with a huge amount of force to lift the anchor up. There was no chance of finding a replacement, and in fact, the actual gearbox itself was still working fine, it was just the mounting points that had failed. Time to make a plan. I decided to build a metal frame around the whole assembly that would hold the gearbox firmly in place using the original mounting bolts. A trip to the town, and in my our best French, we managed to purchase lengths of M12 threaded A4 rod, nuts and washers. A visit to a metal basher followed where we ordered the lengths of aluminium bar for the frame which was duly cut to size and delivered a few days later. Three days of fabrication, sweat and cursing, mostly drilling holes and climbing in and out of the anchor locker later, I had the frame finished and assembled. The whole gearbox is now solidly held in place, and the whole thing worked pleasingly well when it came to pulling up the anchor after it had sunk in to the mud for a month when we finally left Marin.
Fingers and toes crossed this fix will last a good while. Total cost about £150 quid instead of 10 grand for a new windlass!
MarinaIn the barYacht carrier
So we didn’t actually do a lot in the four weeks we were waiting for the sail to be repaired. Money is a bit tight so we only went out a couple of times. Most of the days passed relaxing. Ailsa rediscovered her talent for writing. I spent a lot of time reading. We made more trips to supermarkets than I would care to mention to restock the stores on Azimuth. The leader price supermarket was great with its own dinghy dock, and where you could push your loaded trolley all the way to the waters edge and transfer your shopping straight in to your dinghy! An absolute godsend for all that heavy stuff you really don’t want to lug in the heat. We managed to get lots of stuff sorted. New outdoor lights for the back deck. A monthly phone contract with Digicel that covers the entire Caribbean, all negotiated in French! Oh and the purchase of the numerous weird and obscure parts that you never knew would break on various parts of the boat.
We grew to actually really quite like Le Marin, and it felt sad to leave.
Finally the day came, we collected our sail from North Sails. They delivered exactly on the day they said they would (does that ever happen with marine contractors????). We got the sail back to the boat and hoisted it in a rare lull in the wind. It looks great!!!
But leave we must! It was nearly the end of March. I don’t think either of us thought that we would be in Martinique for over 3 months (with a return to the UK for good measure)
Leaving Martinique
It was a lovely sail south to St Lucia. A short hop of 21 Nautical Miles across the gap between the two. A beam reach too, up to 25 knots, and a good Atlantic swell. We were followed almost the entire way by a flock of birds picking up the flying fish as Azimuth’s bow disturbed them in the waves. It felt great to be back out sailing again after over a month!
Birds on the crossing
We arrived in St Lucia at Rodney Bay. A huge sweeping bay that is very protected in the North by Pigeon Island. Not many boats at anchor here either, so no problem finding somewhere to anchor in the middle.
There is a lagoon at the back of Rodney Bay which can be accessed through a narrow channel, and inside is a little haven of beautifully manicured buildings, a marina and shopping district. So we checked in to the country and went to explore.
At the yacht clubarriving in Rodney Baybeach!LagoonMarina
So far we have had some very pretty sunsets here too. The bay looks out to the west and the wind always blows from the East, so in the evening we sit on the back deck, drinking a mojito or too and watch the sunset
Sunsets at Rodney Bay
We took a visit to Pigeon Island the other day and it turned out to be a fantastic day, well worth the effort of the climb to the top of the peaks. Pigeon Island was where Admiral Rodney built a fort to spy on the French in Martinique. Its the perfect vantage point. You would be able to see them coming from miles away and prepare for any attack!
We had a great afternoon walking round the park, see the ruins and the fort and taking in the breath taking views
We ended up at a very cool little bar restaurant for an obligatory cocktail before heading back to the boat. They made their chairs and tables from old ships wheels and drift wood!
Join us again next time as we explore more of St Lucia!
Last time we left you, we had crossed the Atlantic, and had our family out to visit for Christmas and New Year in Martinique. Life has been relatively hectic since then. Very Sadly, we flew back to the UK for three weeks in January for my fathers funeral, and then headed back to Martinique where we have been ever since, but this time just the two of us.
At Charles de Gaul airport
Its been a lovely two or three weeks. We have pottered about Martinique and revisited some of the places we previously visited in a bit more detail. There has also been a huge todo list of jobs to get through on Azimuth, but unfortunately I have been somewhat lazy in addressing those.
We got back to the boat at the end of January, and were relieved to find her still where we left her on a swinging mooring just outside the marina in Fort de France.
Mountains behind Fort de France
The marina staff were lovely and even though their service dinghy was out of order, and it was outside office hours, they arranged for another of the marina dwellers to give us a lift back to Azimuth. I was all setup to go and swim to the boat, but was grateful I didn’t have to after enduring a whole day of travel from the UK!
We had to leave the mooring the next day so we decided to head back to St Pierre, the amazing anchorage under the brooding volcano Mt Pelee. It was a lovely place to unwind, and the heat was great for a speedy recovery from the snivels that we had both picked up in the UK. There was a few of things we both wanted to see that we hadn’t seen the first time around, and these related to interesting history surrounding the eruption of the volcano here in 1902 and the destruction of the town.
St Pierre was actually a very important port at this time. The town was a bustling place dating back to the 1600’s and was one of the primary ports in the whole of the windward isles. The French had built a cosmopolitan town in its own image with fancy buildings and a splendid theatre. All was destroyed at 8am on the 8th of May 1902 by a huge explosion and a resulting pyroclastic flow that swept across the town killing all the inhabitants, some 28000 people apart from two people, a priest and a prisoner in the town jail.
St Pierre before and after the eruption
We took a great walk up the foothills of Mt Pelee, where there is a geological visitors centre with a display all about the eruption and the geology of the windward isles. We also got to watch a great film which bought the whole story to life. At that time, there was little understanding as to what a pyroclastic flow was. In the aftermath of this eruption, the whole area was intensely surveyed by a visiting professor from France, and the facts were established leading to much better classification of volcanic eruptions. The residents of St Pierre thought they were safe from harm. There had been a smaller eruption a few days prior to the main event and this had triggered a huge mudslide further along the coast that wiped out a sugar cane factory and killed a few people. Since then the mountain had been rumbling, and a huge cone had developed in the volcano’s crater, but the mayor of the town was still telling people not to leave. Apparently there was an election in the coming days, and he wanted people to vote for him!
Mount Pelee Geological Centre
Of particular interest to us, was the surprising fact that over 350 boats and their crew were anchored in the bay that fateful day. All ships and crew were lost in the explosion. So any thoughts of us being able to do a runner should the mountain fancy a rerun would seem to be unreliable!
Our next pit stop for the day was a walk further up the side of mount Pelee, past the sugar cane fields to the Rum distillery called Depaz. There we had a very interesting tour of the works, and stopped by the shop to taste the local product, and the chance to fill the rucksacks with as much Rum as we could carry. At those prices, it made sense at the time…. they sold the stuff in 2 litre wine boxes at 15 Euros each! Any one that joins us on Azimuth in the near future will be welcome to try some, subject to stocks lasting!
Rum!Wall made from old screens?!A visit to Depaz Rum Distillery
A few days later we made an attempt to sail around to the windward side of Martinique. We did quite well, it was pretty rough off the North end of the island and the wind was on the nose. Eventually we gave up returned to St Pierre defeated!
Sailing North Martinique
Instead the next day we sailed south again back to Anse d’Arlet. A very pretty anchorage that we had visited before. one day we took a walk around the headland of the bay over a very rough path through the jungle and mangroves. The views were worth the effort as was the cold drink in Grande Anse, a very pretty and relaxed holiday resort. The walk back along the road to Anse d’Arlet was a lot quicker and easier than the crazy footpath.
Anse d’Arlet BayAnse d’Arlet beautyGrande Anse AnchorageViews of Anse d’Arlet
It was whilst in Anse d’Arlet, whilst reading the guide book that we realised that the Martinique Carnival was due any moment now, so we decided that was something we should not miss. It is said to be one of the best of the Caribbean Carnivals.
That in mind then, we set sail and headed back to Fort de France. It looked way too busy in the anchorage there so we headed two miles across the bay to Anse Mitan, another resort town.
Anse Mitan local resident pays us a visit!
We thought we could get the ferry from there to Fort de France for the carnival. Of course in typical Dom and Ailsa fashion, it turned out we were completely wrong with our dates for the carnival. At this point it was still over a week away! Oh well such is the sailing life … we are lucky we can just sit around and wait. What to do in the meantime?
Well the town of Trois Islets is just near Anse Mitan. Trois Islets is where the sugar plantation and home of the Empress Josephine, wife of Napoleon Bonaparte, where she grew up. So we took a (long hot) walk to go and visit. It was worth the effort, except that the town itself was somewhat disappointing having been described in the book as a photogenic town not overrun by visitors. There turned out to be nothing to see at all! Still lunch was provided by a pleasant restaurant with traditional creole cooking. Jumping in the sea on our return to the boat is always the best way to refresh after a hot day too!
A visit to Trois Islet
Some of you may have read my previous post, where Azimuth appears on YouTube. Worth a watch we think. Anse Mitan was where we met the guys from Sans Souci and Jessica did the interview with us.
So after killing a few days in Anse Mitan, we decided now was the time to go and attempt to get a decent place in the Fort de France anchorage still some 4 days before the carnival started. We are glad we did! The anchorage was already rammed when we arrived, but we managed to stick ourselves in a decent spot right on the edge of the approved anchorage area. Having arrived and secured our space, much of the entertainment over the next few days was provided by watching people arrive and also try and secure a space in this already overloaded anchorage.
Fort de France Anchorage FULL!
Here’s a little piece that Ailsa wrote that describes the crazyness!
“Watching the Anchoring in Fort de France, Martinique”
We arrived on a Wednesday and dropped the hook at the edge of the anchorage, a nice safe space, a bit bouncy with the ferries motoring to and fro all day but not too rough for a 58 foot sailing yacht like ours. Yachts came and went over the next couple of days, but Martinique Carnival starts with a vengeance on Sunday so we thought it would get busier towards then. On Saturday we were able to spend a happy morning watching the soap opera that is other people anchoring. It has all the drama and pathos, the tension, anxiety, farce and joy of a good soap opera and we enjoyed a good couple of hours of it!
One after another yachts arrived and we watched their masts weave through the obstacle course of other boats. I’m a little ashamed to say I used binoculars at times. There was a USA flagged monohull, 45 feet maybe, charged into the forest of masts dropped his hook, twice, in a space that may have accommodated a 35 foot boat at best, struggled to extracate himself, succeeded, moved to the rougher outer part of the anchorage, dropped his hook a total of 4 times, gave up and left Fort de France heading for Trois Islet or somewhere. We watched a 45 foot Swedish flagged boat head towards us at a scary 40 degree lean, full sails up in at least 25 knots of wind, then expertly lower sails and head into the centre of the anchorage. They dropped their hook, once, into a tight but safe spot most people would not have contemplated. They deserved a round of applause for that.
A British flagged boat and another USA flagged yacht anchored and then pulled up their hooks, motored around a bit and then swapped places and dropped again. One yacht dropped anchor in a perfectly reasonable space only to pick it up five minutes later and head deeper into the forest looking for a better spot, give up and headed back to their original place only to find that another yacht had arrived and taken it. One boat next to us pulled up their anchor and left and two boats immediately motored into the space and dropped their hooks, it was close but just tenable. I guess neither skipper was prepared to give ground. A french flagged boat parked just as close as he could get to two other boats whose skippers, stood on their decks watching nervously, must have spent anxious hours wondering if the frequent swinging would lead to collision. And of course the audience of people on safely anchored yachts, just watching and enjoying.
The wind is generally from the same direction, but the sea bed undulates and parts of this anchorage might be fine for catamarans or shallow draft vessels but not for anything with a two meter draft or more. There are yachts with plenty of scope out and yachts with less, and the potential for anchors to get tangled is not insignificant. However, I love this anchorage, it can be busy and noisy but Fort de France is a lovely place to be when you want the amenities of a large town. My advice, just don’t try and anchor here on a the Saturday before Carnival! Having read this account back to myself, I have decided that watching people anchoring is a pastime that is only acceptable when I do it to other people. Thank goodness my anchoring is always perfect and never provides entertainment for the rubber neckers…..
Nice! She has submitted this one of the boating magazines, which might print this in their letters section!
So the lead up to the subject of this post has been a long one. Sorry about that! Carnival day(s) finally arrived! The build up in Fort de France over the last few days had been huge. Lots of street stands had been erected, and there was a real buzz about the place. We pulled up that afternoon in town and the place was already heaving with people, all dressed up in the most extravagant of costumes. There was a huge amount of effort that went in to the event. The parade consisted of different groups of people from all over the Island with their own banner explaining where they are from, amazing outfits, dancers and drummers that made for a stunning sensory experience. Each group bought their own take and style to the carnival. We joined the melee and let the whole experience wash over us. Its difficult to describe the level of noise and how the madness increased throughout the day! Hopefully the video below does some justice. It felt great to back in a huge crowd of partying people. Good riddance Covid!
Martinique Carnival
So the carnival actually ran for four days in total. The pictures and video above are just from day one. We went to three of the days, each of them with a different theme and coloured outfits. The last day was probably the craziest of the lot. And so here are some pictures and another video to try and capture the mood. We end up on what we are calling the “craziest corner” in the carnival. As the evening progressed, we found ourselves surrounded by a sea of people and being attacked by swarms of marching bands from all angles! There was no defined route for the carnival, it was just a free for all on all the streets of the town!
Here’s some of the pictures from the day!
We reckon everyone should paint their cars like this?!Crowds everywhere!You have to beware these guys covered in black treacle. They like to high five you and you end up sticky!People watching!
That’s all for now. Join as next time as we loiter a little longer in Martinique and try and get soime boat jobs done and then sail south to St Lucia!
So you never know who you are going to meet when you arrive at a new anchorage? We pulled up a few days ago in Anse Mitan, just near Fort de France in Martinique and dropped our anchor right next to a boat called “Sans Souci”, flying the Netherlands flag . We waved to each other in greeting. A little while later, they popped over to see us, and asked us if we would consider being interviewed for their YouTube channel “Boatlife is best”. On their channel, they interview fellow sailors about their lives onboard boats. We said we would love to! So the following day Jessica came over with all her equipment and we did the interview. Jessica had the video edited and online within a couple of days. Very efficient!
Hope you enjoy watching it!
Please consider supporting Jessica by subscribing to her channel and watching some of the other great videos she has produced so far. Some really interesting characters and you get a feel for why people want to be part of the boating life.
Quite a few people have asked us to show them pictures of Azimuth and what she looks like inside. We thought we would go one better and post a little video tour of the boat whilst sat at anchor in beautiful Martinique. Enjoy!
Watch the video tour of Azimuth
For those of you that want a little more detail here are some of the specifications of the boat:
One of my fathers favourite authors was Tolkein, so forgive me as I start my eulogy adapting Bilbo Baggins’ scene where he starts to write his book in The Lord of the Rings.
Now where to begin? Ah yes ….
Concerning my Father
Rob Pearce had been living and working in the Shire of Nottingham for many years.
Quite content to sit in his shed and ignore the growing list of jobs created by my mother.
Radcliffe-on-Trent, being after all, full of strange people beyond count. My fathers shed must have seemed a little oasis of peace and quiet apart from the occasional sound of power tools.
Infact it has been remarked by some that my fathers only real passion was for the fettling of wood. A rather unfair observation … as during his life he had also developed a keen interest in the drinking of ales and the smoking of pipes. But where his heart truly lay was in the love of his wife, his family and his friends.
Today of all days, it is bought home to me it is no bad thing to celebrate a wonderful life!
What a life well lived….
I have so many fond memories of my dad it is hard to know where to begin. He touched my life is so many ways.
We both shared a passion for the outdoors. My childhood memories of our family holidays to the Isle of Mull always featured my Dad and I pouring over the geological memoirs and maps of that glorious Isle and planning our sorties to go and seek out its treasures of sapphires, agates, garnets and other exotic minerals. Its true … sometimes we even found some! But what we mostly got was to share long sun soaked days together walking through magnificent scenery and huge vistas, fighting off swarms of midges, negotiating peat bogs, scrambling along sea shores and romping cliff side paths whilst avoiding the mountain goats. Those are the experiences I hold responsible for my life long passion for the outdoors all inspired by dad.
Dad was such a strong and guiding force in my early years. In everything I did, he was there to encourage me, console me when things didn’t work out and more than anything praise me when things did go well.
We moved into 19 Lorne Grove when I was 6. The house needed a good deal of work, and it did take mum and Dad many years to mould the place to their will. But I can remember those days of helping dad strip tens of layers of old wallpaper and him showing me all the skills and tools I would eventually go on to need myself doing up my own homes and boats. I have him to thank for that practicality. It never stopped through my whole life. Dad always took a keen interest in all of my DIY projects. He lent me tools from his extensive collection (some of which I may not have returned yet … sorry dad), and always wanted to help in any way he could. More recently, he loved to talk about our boat and all the projects I was doing to get her shipshape. His woodworking skills were put to good use crafting us a beautiful teak table, the centre piece of our boat saloon as well as many other items he made for us. Sorry mum … I know that these distractions meant that he didn’t get on with the things on your list!
My dad really took to being a grandfather. He liked to be called Pops and never was a man prouder than he of all his grandchildren. I know he took great joy from watching them grow up and wanted to be a part of their lives. Dad was a godsend for Ailsa and I as we struggled with managing jobs and bringing up a young family. My Dad would come over to our house in West Bridgford, making full use of his free bus pass, of which he was very proud, once or twice a week, and would be there to greet our three boys as they got home from school. He would then proceed to cook up a feast always featuring a mountain of broccoli (the only vegetable that was mutually agreeable to our boys) and a variety of delicious meals which he had concocted based on trail and experimentation. These were burgers, chicken nuggets and his infamous fish cakes. Note though that none of these items would be shop bought from the freezer section. Each was freshly and lovingly prepared from scratch. Even Vincent, arguably the fussiest eater of then all would grudgingly agree that pops could cook a fine meal! And I know the boys loved having him around at the end of the school day.The bonus was that when we got home from work, there was always some food left for Ailsa and I, especially broccoli. Thanks Dad!
Some of you may know that Ailsa and I have a passion for sailing. We bought our first yacht, Edelweiss, in 2014, and we had to sail her from Eastbourne to her new home in Portishead. Our boys have never been quite as enthusiastic about sailing as us, but grudgingly they joined us on that trip. About halfway, Ailsa was called away for an emergency at work. Vinnie seized the moment, and took this as an opportunity to jump ship too. That left just myself, Ethan and Caleb the task of getting Edelweiss the 300 or so miles round to Portishead. I needed some help as I was very new to skippering at that point. My Dad came to the rescue. At a moments notice, he dropped everything, jumped on a train and joined us within a few hours. That was so typical of my Dad, couldn’t do enough to help. We had a great laugh on that trip. We didn’t see much of the boys, they hid in their cabins most of the time, but Dad and I sat in the cockpit together, talked and watched the world go by. He of course loved the birdlife at sea. I know he was quite frustrated by sailing though. He kept suggesting that I should install twin 200 horse power engines on the back of the boat. 5 Knots just didn’t cut it! He stuck at the trip all the way, although I could see he was finding it hard work. We rounded lands end together at dawn and had a really difficult sail in tough conditions up to Padstow. I could see the crew were all struggling, and I was starting to anticipate possible mutiny. We were all relieved to get in to port and get to the chippie before it shut. I was beginning to wonder whether my Dad was really cut out for a life at sea? My doubts were confirmed when Ailsa came down to take over from Dad for the last leg. She arrived in the car at around midnight. My dad literally lept off the boat, ran to the car, told Ailsa to leave it running, got in the drivers seat, a quick goodbye and he was off in a cloud of dust! He never admitted it to me, but I know that he had found that trip hard work. But that was my Dad, he would have done anything to help me whenever I asked.
Dad, I still cant believe that you have gone. Taken before your time. I will never forget you dad, and I know your memory will live on within everyone of you here today whose lives he has touched.
Thanks to Sally Williams from St Mary’s in Radcliffe for putting together this video.
