Hi to everyone and welcome to another instalment of our sailing blog. Last time we were in Great Barrier Island and had the amazing Orca experience. This time we sail further south and visit Waiheke island and head to the Coromandel Peninsula.
So why is the title of this blog “Following Captain Cook” I hear you ask. Well, recently I was on Facebook and the Captain Cook Society popped up in my feed. I was fascinated to see a daily post with extracts from Captain Cooks Logbook as well as extracts from other members of his crew which detailed where James Cook and his ship Endeavour was on that particular day / date but in the year 1769, i.e. 256 years ago. Well as it happens, we found ourselves sailing his precise route (but in reverse) and visiting the same anchorages!
I had plans to visit many of the anchorages where Cook had anchored Endeavour, but this added a new context to this trip for me.
So lets get started shall we?
The wind gods were smiling on us on the 21st October and we pulled up the anchor in Great Barrier Island and made our way through the Man O’ War pass out from the protection of the inner lagoon. It was a very narrow pass! The sail was glorious as we left the protection of the island waters and out in to the channel. Behind us we left Great Barrier Island. To our starboard side was the imposing lump of Small Barrier Island, a towering volcano of an island, and to our port we could see Cape Colville the tip of the Coromandel Peninsula named by Cook on his passage through this area. We enjoyed the beam reach across the sea and a few hours later the other side of the mainland of New Zealand came in to view as we approached the Auckland area and Waiheke Island.
We were not prepared for the wind that hit us as we approached Waiheke! Jumping from 15 knots to 25, we were heeled hard over as we navigated our way past rocks and a lighthouse and in to narrow channel down the side of Waiheke doing 9 knots. Furling away the jib meant we managed to get things a little more under control and we sailed through a narrow gap in to much calmer waters on just the mainsail with a sigh of relief! We headed to the South of the Island to find an anchorage.

Out first choice turned out to be a non starter. It was shallow, and swelly and when we dropped the hook and tried to set it, we dragged back. Pulling up the anchor revealed that it was soft gooey mud of the type that we find it impossible to anchor in with our delta anchor. So we moved to the next bay along and found a place where the anchor would hold in Huruhi Bay anchored off the little village of Blackpool!
Being short on supplies, the next day we planned a shopping expedition and to try and find a place to get rid of all our rubbish we had accumulated for the last month. We use an app called Noforeignland, it is very useful as a source of information to cruisers such as where you can leave your dinghy, or where the nearest shop is, or where you can get rid of your recycling etc. We got some funny looks as we trudged in to town with rucksacks and shopping bags full of rubbish for the 2 mile walk to find the bins!
But find them we did and after that we headed to the pub for the first meal we had out in over a month, apparently the best fish and chips in town washed down with a glass of ‘Sav’ for Ailsa and a pint of Hazy Ale for me.
Restored then, we headed to the supermarket next door and loaded up with as much stuff as we thought we could carry the two miles back to the boat. More funny looks from the locals as we made our way down the beach and across some mud flats with bags full of shopping! Such is boat life.
With the fridge restocked, there was no reason to stay any longer in the relatively dull Huruki Bay, and the wind was threatening to make that place uncomfortable so we set sail slowly along the south coast of Waiheke to its East End in search of shelter and a better view.
When we are sailing we always have our VHF radio on tuned to channel 16. On that day, there was a Mayday issued by the local Auckland to Waiheke Ferry. The engine room was on fire and they were drifting towards the rocks on the west side of Waiheke! We were too far away to offer any assistance, but we listened in fascination as the event unfolded and other vessels came to their assistance. There were 30 people onboard and the Auckland rescue services were with them within the hour and everyone was rescued!
The west side of Waiheke was very pretty and we dropped the anchor with only two other boats in the bay off the beach in a place called Man O’ War anchorage. This is another of Cooks Anchorages.
We were to stay here for a week, mostly to ride out a gale that decided to blow through a few days later. That’s shown in the video above. Unknown to us, New Zealand was celebrating a bank holiday that weekend. This turned out to be the place to be for Auckland’s boating community. On the Friday night and Saturday morning this bay and adjacent ones filled to the max with all kinds of motor and sailing vessels and we were totally surrounded with a huge number of party boats. Everyone was in good spirits.


After the long weekend, everyone cleared out and we were pretty much on our own again apart from 2 or 3 other sailboats and rode out the gale. That was all going okay until there was a large bang at the front of the boat. We rushed to see what the problem was to find our trusty anchor snubber (a huge rope with a chain hook that hooks to the anchor chain and takes the load off the windlass) had completely snapped and the hook had fallen away. That rope was at least an inch thick! We guess that nearly four years at anchor had weakened the rope where it wraps over the anchor roller and this gusty gale had been its final death. Out with the spare and we were back safe again.
The wind eventually died and so we took the opportunity to go to shore and take a walk.








It was a very beautiful place. The walk took us up a steep gravel road to the top of the island where we walked past a second world war bunker called Stoney Batter and stopped for a sandwich at the top. We retraced our route back to the beach where we found the Man O’ War vineyard open for business! Never one to miss an opportunity, Ailsa was pleased to find herself in her natural habitat again!


We had some fabulous sunsets in this anchorage!




And one day a tall ship stopped in the anchorage called the Spirit of New Zealand. You could easily have imagined it was Captain James Cook in the Endeavour!


Not long after we arrived in New Zealand last year, our first road trip was to the Coromandel Peninsula for a camping trip and to collect some new (to us) sails from a sail broker to replace the ones we wrecked coming across the Pacific. Now it was time to sail to this stunning peninsula, and we would not be disappointed!
We headed to a place called Te Kouma harbour just south of the town of Coromandel almost directly west from Waiheke Island and across a stretch of water called the Thames Sound. Incidentally, another place that Cook had visited and anchored in almost 256 years to the day. We were to stay in this glorious place for the next two weeks! When you find somewhere you like, why move on?
Here is Ailsa’s take on the anchorage:
We pretty much had this place to ourselves for the whole two weeks other than a brief visit from some Aussies on a boat called Ella Ella. They were a very nice couple with whom we had a couple of evenings together.
How about this for an anchorage?














I took the opportunity to take the canoe out for many trips. We rigged up the dinghy with the sail and had a couple of trips out in to the bay. And we went for at least two walks along the peninsula to soak up the views of the Coromandel. It is such as special place, and one that we had all to ourselves too.


















































On one of the walks, we found this shaped stone. It definitely looked manmade to us?


And here is a video if you want to see some more of this magical place. Watch it on a big screen if you can!
After two weeks here then, enjoying the peace and tranquillity, one day the wind veered round and gave us the opportunity to carry on and sail around to the other side of the Coromandel Peninsula and visit another of Cooks Anchorages at Mercury Bay. We had a sail of two halves. The first half was champagne sailing. A slow meander up the coast with a flat sea whisking past a set of remote islands full of wildlife. Over the afternoon, the sky started to darken, and a squall appeared behind us. We watched with fascination as this tornado threatened to form out of the cloud!



From here the wind started to build! And the seas started to build too as we approached the formidable Cape Colville. This cape was named by Captain cook and it took the Endeavor two days and nights to tack hard against the wind to get round this cape in a gale. We had a downwind sail, but the wind picked up to 25 knots and the sea was rough as it snaked past this huge cape.
Here is Cooks map of the Coromandel and you can see his route around Cape Colville. Next to it is our route too. Cook generated all his maps as he went using just a sighting compass. he was surprisingly accurate I think! Thank goodness that we didn’t have an upwind tack like he had to!


Once we passed the cape, the wind did not let up and increased to 30 knots and we had a pretty exhilarating but bouncy broad reach all the way out to the east side of Mercury Island where we dropped our anchor with some relief in a very protected bay called Coralie Bay.
Here is a video of some of the highlights of the sail
Coralie Bay was the perfect place for a respite. Whilst it looked like the bay was wide open to the ocean, the realty was a narrow passage between treacherous reefs to get in to a wide horseshoe bay. Those reefs killed most of the swell from getting in to the bay making it a very pleasant place to anchor.




I climbed up the cliff next to the bay to take in the wonderful views and we went for a walk on the beach and even discovered a fossilised tree embedded in the beach at low tide. Its a remote and pristine place. Here’s a video of the highlights:
Well the wind never stays steady for long around these parts, and after a couple of days enjoying this place it was time to leave before the wind swung hard to the East and would put us on a lee shore.
Off we motored for an hour to the South of Great Mercury Island to an anchorage called Peach Tree Grove.


That place turned out to be horribly rolly. The swell came round the bottom of the Island and rolled right in to the bay. The wind dropped and we went side on to the swell for an unpleasant night.
Time to move again, but there were very few options to anchor in this area when the wind was blowing from the East. We settled on a place called Matapua Bay at the North end of the entrance to Mercury Bay. This anchorage was nestled behind an impressive rocky headland called Devils Point. We were hopeful the swell wouldn’t make it past that, but of course it did, and we had another night of rolling!
The next morning the fog rolled in and the wind died. Later we pulled up the hook and headed out in to Mercury Bay surfing down large waves in the mist heading for the town of Whitianga and a lovely anchorage called Flaxmill Bay. The whole of Mercury Bay shallows quite alarmingly towards Whitianga, and I watched with trepidation as the depth sounder shifted uneasily from 2m to 3m and back to 2m (under the keel) as each metre high swell lifted Azimuth up and down. We were relieved to find Flaxmill Bay swell free and we dropped the hook for a more stable anchorage. The wind would drop to nothing for the next week making this a very pleasant place to stay. The sandstone cliffs at the side of the beach had been deeply eroded leading to the these large overhangs.








We would take the dinghy to the beach, and then a short walk down the road bought us to a ferry across the river mouth and into the town of Whitianga. Whitianga is a vibrant place and we stopped for lunch a couple of times at a very nice Irish Pub called Grace O’ Malley’s where the portion sizes were big enough to last you for the entire day!

We took several trips to the local supermarket to stock up on provisions again.
There was a nod to Captain Cook on this mural that is painted on a shop wall in the town centre



Cook named the place Mercury Bay after he conducted a sighting of the transit of Mercury across the sun from the bay next to where we were anchored. He did this on the 9th November 1769 helping his astronomer Charles Green. Cook had previously observed the transit of Venus from Tahiti at the appropriately name Venus Bay, another place we have anchored too! The idea of these measurements was the first attempt to accurately assess the distance between the Earth and the Sun.
Another very interesting tribute to Cook was to be found right next to our anchorage at the top of a walk to Shakespeare Cliffs and a lookout point over Cooks Bay where the sighting of Mercury was conducted in the dunes at the back of the beach. There were a number of plaques to read and great views of the whole area.









Later that week, before we set off to head further South, we decided to go and anchor in Cooks Bay itself, just to tick the box! We were about 100 metres from the exact spot that Endeavour anchored which is marked by a buoy!



With the weather changing again, we had the opportunity to sail further South, leaving the Coromandel Peninsula behind and heading for the Bay of Plenty and the port town of Tauranga. The forecast was back to wind from the East, and not too strong, gusts up to 25 knots. We weren’t prepared then to be met by mountainous seas as well pulled out of the protection of Cooks Bay and tried to sail out of Mercury Bay. We fought our way down the coast for a few hours being thrown around like a cork and then found refuge nestled behind a pretty place called Slipper Island where we found some respite. This East coast was certainly proving to be challenging. The wind hadn’t been that strong, but the wave height and its choppiness had been very uncomfortable. We both felt a bit green!
The next day the wind swung more to the North East that had the desired effect of flattening the sea state and we sailed a broad reach 36 miles further South to the impressive entrance to Tauranga Port where we did battle with container ships and found ourselves briefly part of a yacht race!








The anchorage in Tauranga was not the best! We found ourselves anchored 200 metres from a busy cargo port that was working 24/7 with the sounds of crashing containers and squawking seagulls! Still, it was flat calm and very sheltered. We got a visit from a fellow liveaboard sailor called Aiden who lived on his 28 foot yacht in the anchorage. Only a young guy, he worked as a workboat captain on night shifts. His job was to go out on call when the cargo loaders accidently dropped a log in the port and he had to retrieve it. He was a happy soul, and that evening he appeared at our boat with beers, a steamed Octopus, and a bucket full of crabs for us to share! The poor guy had even had his bike nicked that afternoon from a local supermarket, but he didn’t seem to mind too much. We felt terrible for him. He had some interesting religious views and we ended up discussing the evolution of humans from apes which he categorically did not believe, but we had a nice evening together!!
Its been a long post! But I do enjoy sharing our journey with you all. Join us next time as we tell you all about probably our most challenging sail to date down the East coast of New Zealand from Tauranga all the way to Wellington.
Dom & Ailsa on Azimuth.














































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































